The Midnight Cowboy

 

In the vibrant month of May 1969, the Bruin Theater in Westwood buzzed with anticipation as a long queue of moviegoers, including myself and three companions named Marty, Alan, and Gary Gole, eagerly awaited their turn to see the recently released “Midnight Cowboy”. The line stretched for blocks, and we had already spent over an hour patiently waiting for the 10 pm showing, which was typically the last screening of the evening. However, to our disappointment, the 10 pm show had sold out, forcing us to remain in line for an additional screening added after midnight.

Amidst our conversations while in line, one topic that captivated our attention was our shared dream of embarking on a European adventure the following summer, specifically during the enchanting season of 1970. We made a solemn pact to make this dream a reality. As for the movie itself, I distinctly recall the exceptional performances and the movie's overall somber tone. It left a lasting impression on me, instilling a determination to avoid a life of hardship and disappointment, similar to the characters Ratso and Joe.

True to our pledge, the subsequent summer saw three out of the four of us fulfilling our pact to journey to Europe. In early June, we boarded one of the numerous student charters bound for Europe, armed with our three-month Eurail Passes and a supply of traveler's checks. Personally, I carried $900, intending for it to last me the four months ahead.

Our adventure commenced with a stay at the YWCA in London, where we settled in for several weeks. Coincidentally, our arrival coincided with the World Cup soccer matches taking place in Mexico City. Although I had never been much of a soccer enthusiast, the excitement surrounding the games was palpable, particularly during the match between Germany and the UK. I vividly recall the wild atmosphere at the YWCA as the Germans emerged victorious. In the final match, the renowned Brazilian team led by the legendary Pele clinched the championship—a name I had not yet heard, but one that would become synonymous with greatness in the world of football. Apart from the sports fervor, I also remember attending a performance of the musical 1776, which failed to resonate with the local audience's sense of humor. Additionally, we watched the movie "Z," an ill-fated choice before our visit to Greece.

Departing from London, our journey continued to Calais, France. Here, a comedic culinary mishap unfolded as Alan, known for his preference for well-done meat, received his order rare. Sending it back only resulted in an even rarer and nearly raw serving. Our confusion between "bien cuit" (well-done) and "tartare" led to amusement among the restaurant staff once the misunderstanding was clarified.

 In Belgium, we found ourselves accommodated in a building that had endured bomb damage during World War II but remained unrepaired. Our stay in Copenhagen introduced us to the local tradition of homeowners at the train station offering their spare rooms for rent. One gracious host took a liking to our group of young travelers and kindly showed us around the city.

In Oslo, we encountered a rather peculiar situation. Our lodgings were shared with sailors, one of whom resorted to selling his gold fillings to finance his next voyage. This unsettling circumstance compelled us to escape our room in the dead of night, seeking solace in the screening of the film “Mash”. However, we soon realized that the audience's laughter did not align with our own, possibly due to delayed subtitles.

A memorable train journey took us from Sweden through East Germany and ultimately into West Germany. The train's windows were securely boarded up during our passage through East Germany, rendering us unable to look outside or exit. The boards were only removed once we crossed into West Germany.

Austria welcomed us into its embrace as we stayed with a friend of my cousin Leon. This hospitable acquaintance resided in a house neighboring the famous gazebo featured in The Sound of Music. Although his name escapes me, he insisted that we sample his homemade schnapps, which left us pleasantly surprised and a bit disoriented. It was during our Austrian escapade that I discovered Wiener Schnitzel is, in fact, not a hot dog—a revelation that brought a touch of amusement to our journey. Switzerland's breathtaking beauty beckoned, but its high costs prevented us from extending our stay.

To reach Greece, we embarked on a voyage to the southeast coast of Italy, opting for the cheapest passage available—a spot on the ship's top deck exposed to the elements. I distinctly remember the bone-chilling cold and dampness, seeking refuge inside a rope coil to ward off the chill, only to be quickly displaced as the ship dropped anchor.

Our first Greek destination was the picturesque island of Corfu. During the boat journey, we struck up a conversation with a group of women from New York, also of Greek heritage. Their assistance proved invaluable in securing a hotel room on the island. However, we soon discovered that dinner was typically served at 10 pm, causing initial confusion when we attempted to dine earlier, fearing that our American nationality hindered our service.

Arriving in Athens, we found our accommodation at a hotel that seemed overpriced compared to our initial expectations. Venturing to the local police station to express our concerns, we were promptly relocated to a more suitable hotel. Nevertheless, we had already paid for dinner at the initial hotel and, to our surprise, the restaurant provided a breathtaking rooftop view overlooking the illuminated Acropolis—an experience tainted by the realization that our budget could not accommodate a longer stay. At our new lodgings, the husband graciously drove us (still accompanied by the two New York women we had met on the boat) to the beach each day. However, it later transpired that his motivation stemmed from an affair he was engaged in, leading his wife to unjustly blame us and subsequently evict us all from the premises. We sought refuge on another Greek island, where I savored the local fish while Marty's choice of a meat dish left him severely ill. Lessons were learned, teaching us the wisdom of embracing local cuisine.